New Year’s Day has always carried a special energy for me—a promise of fresh starts, new goals, and a chance to embrace life’s adventures with renewed enthusiasm. Over the past eight years, I’ve developed a tradition of kicking off each year with a winter excursion. This year, I returned to one of my favorite destinations: Lassen Volcanic National Park.
After a few years of exploring other winter wonderlands—including a snowy adventure at Calaveras Big Trees State Park last year—I felt the magnetic pull of Lassen’s unique volcanic landscape calling me back. Snowshoeing through its pristine wilderness, where geothermal activity bubbles beneath the surface, is nothing short of surreal.
The Journey Begins
The day began with an early start in Carson Valley. My hiking buddy, Tom, and I loaded up the car just as the sun rose, painting the sky in brilliant shades of orange and pink—a promising start to the new year. The drive to Lassen takes about three hours, weaving two hours north along Highway 395 to Susanville, then west through Chester and past Lake Almanor to the park’s southern entrance.
As we left Susanville, our optimism was dampened by ominous clouds and signs of recent warm rains. The northern California snowpack seemed under siege by unseasonable weather. Passing familiar landmarks like St. Bernard Lodge along Route 36—a cherished stop for many adventurers—we wondered aloud if there would even be enough snow to enjoy. Thankfully, as we turned onto Highway 89 and ascended into the park, the rain morphed into slushy snow, and the towering roadside berms reassured us that Lassen hadn’t lost its winter magic.
Into the Snowy Wonderland
Arriving at the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center, we found a modest gathering of about 10 cars. The lodge itself was closed for the holiday, but that didn’t dampen our spirits. We layered up—my new merino wool base layer proving invaluable against the damp chill—and strapped on our snowshoes.
Our first destination was Sulphur Works, a popular geothermal area easily accessible along Highway 89. The route is well-trodden, so snowshoes weren’t strictly necessary, but they widened the path and added a satisfying crunch beneath our feet. Along the way, we passed families sledding, cross-country skiers gliding effortlessly, and others simply walking to enjoy the winter scenery. The landscape was breathtaking—a wonderland of snow-laden white pines and hemlocks that looked like they belonged in Santa’s village.
Sulphur Works greeted us with its signature steaming vents and bubbling pots, their pungent sulfuric aroma a reminder of the volcanic activity simmering below. After soaking in the sights (and odors), we decided to leave the crowds behind and follow a group of backcountry skiers up the west slopes toward Ridge Lakes.
The Climb to Ridge Lakes
The climb to Ridge Lakes is a moderately challenging trek, ascending about 1,000 feet in just over a mile. Without the skiers’ tracks, I might have been lost—a humbling reminder that tools like maps and GPS apps are useless if you forget to prepare them in advance! The trail wound through a gorgeous canyon, flanked by creek beds and ridges adorned with snow-draped white pines, hemlocks, and sugar pines. The interplay of green moss, snowy drifts, and the decay of fallen trees created a tableau of natural resilience and beauty.
Halfway up, we encountered a young family teaching their son to snowboard in the backcountry. Their determination was admirable, though the oversized board and a touch of fear made progress slow. A passing skier assured us the climb was worth it, but as the trail steepened and the wet snow soaked through our layers, I began to question the wisdom of continuing. The looming cornices above and the potential for avalanches finally tipped the scales. Reluctantly, we decided to turn back.
The Descent
Heading downhill was a joy. The strain of the climb gave way to a lightness that allowed us to fully appreciate the beauty around us. The snow-covered ridges and quiet creeks felt like scenes from a dream, even as the slushy weather reminded us of nature’s unpredictability. By the time we returned to the main trail, the park had transformed into a bustling winter playground, with families laughing and sledding near the visitor center.
Closing the Day
Drenched but exhilarated, we changed into dry clothes and left the park just as the sun dipped below the horizon. On the way home, we stopped at St. Bernard Lodge, where Sharon, the owner, welcomed us with warm coffee and conversation. Though closed for winter except to returning guests, the lodge remains a favorite stop of mine when exploring northern California. Sharon hinted at exciting plans for the summer season and mentioned she’s already looking for staff—something to keep in mind for those who share her love for this region.
We ended the day with pizza in Chester and reflected on the adventure during the drive home. Despite the damp conditions, Lassen Volcanic National Park once again proved to be a stunning and invigorating place to start the year. Here’s to another New Year’s Day filled with classic memories and the timeless beauty of California’s natural wonders.
