A 4-Day Route Through Phipps Lake, the Velmas, Dicks Pass, Lake Aloha and Echo Lakes
Desolation Wilderness is often introduced through its famous destinations. Lake Aloha draws photographers and backpackers from across California. Dicks Pass is one of the most recognizable climbs in the Lake Tahoe Basin. The Velma Lakes, Gilmore Lake, and Echo Lakes each have their own loyal following.
What many hikers never experience is how these places connect together.
This four-day backpacking itinerary travels through the heart of Desolation Wilderness, beginning at Meeks Bay on Lake Tahoe’s Northwest shore and finishing at Echo Lakes near South Lake Tahoe. Along the way you’ll cross granite basins, alpine passes, hidden lakes, and some of the most scenic terrain in the Tahoe region.
While the route can be completed in two to three days, four days allows time to explore side destinations, enjoy camp, and experience the quieter side of a wilderness often known for its popularity.
Trip Overview
Distance: Approximately 28–35 Miles
Duration: 4 Days / 3 Nights
Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous
Highest Elevation: Dicks Pass (9,380 feet)
Best Season: July through September
Permit Required: Desolation Wilderness Overnight Permit
Route Type: Point-to-Point
Trailheads: Meeks Bay to Echo Lakes
Why This Route?
Many visitors enter Desolation Wilderness for a single lake or overnight destination. This route takes a different approach.
Beginning on the North Eastern edge of the wilderness, the trail gradually climbs from forested slopes into a landscape dominated by granite ridges, alpine lakes, and sweeping mountain views. The route connects some of Desolation’s best-known destinations while also offering opportunities to camp away from the busiest areas.
For hikers looking to experience the full character of Desolation Wilderness, few routes provide a better introduction.
Day 1: Meeks Bay to Phipps Lake
Distance: 5–7 Miles
The journey begins at the Meeks Bay Trailhead, where the route climbs steadily through mixed forest toward Phipps Pass.
While many backpackers attempt to push deeper into the wilderness on their first day, this western section deserves time to explore. Several excellent camping options exist depending on your pace and preferred camp style.
Stony Ridge Lake is the largest and most popular destination in the area, offering broad granite shorelines and easy swimming access. Rubicon lake provides another option with additional campsites and fewer visitors, this higher altitude lake is surrounded by interesting rock features, meadow grasses.
For those seeking a quieter first evening, continue to Phipps Lake. Surrounded by granite ridges and tucked away from the busiest corridors, it offers one of the more peaceful camps in western Desolation. There is no direct trail to the lake so map skills and a little off trail excursion will be required. But the blue clear waters, the views of the north eastern ridges of the wilderness are what make wilderness travel so addicting.
Sierra Rec Recommendation
Phipps Lake strikes the best balance of scenery, solitude, and mileage. It also sets up a comfortable second day through the Velma Lakes basin.
Day 2: Through the Velmas to Gilmore Lake
Distance: 8–10 Miles
Leave camp and descend into one of the most beautiful sections of Desolation Wilderness.
The trail passes through the Velma Lakes basin, where Lower, Middle, and Upper Velma Lakes sit among polished granite slabs, small meadows, and scattered lodgepole pines. Many hikers consider this area among the finest lake basins in the Tahoe region. Personally I would head down to Lower Velma off trail before coming back up to the Upper Velmas where you are likely to find more campers.
Take time to explore before continuing south toward Fontanillis Lake and nearby Dicks Lake. With the route just above Upper Velma, enjoy a canopy of old growth before coming up to a small water crossing at the Northern edge of Fontanillis.
Staged beneath the towering walls of Dicks Peak, both lakes showcase the rugged alpine character that defines Desolation Wilderness. From here, the route begins the steady climb toward Dicks Pass.
At more than 9,300 feet, Dicks Pass provides one of the finest viewpoints on the trip. Looking west reveals much of the country traveled since leaving Meeks Bay. Looking east opens views toward Gilmore Lake, Lake Aloha, and the granite landscape that still lies ahead.
After crossing the pass, descend to Gilmore Lake and establish camp.
The lake’s broad granite shoreline, mountain views, and excellent camping make it one of the most rewarding overnight destinations in the wilderness.
Day 3: Mount Tallac, Susie Lake and Lake Aloha
Distance: 7–10 Miles
Strong hikers may choose to begin the day with an early-morning ascent of Mount Tallac.
Although not part of the standard route, the summit offers one of the most iconic viewpoints in the Tahoe Basin. Looking north, much of Desolation Wilderness spreads across the horizon, revealing many of the lakes and passes visited during the trip.
After returning to the main route, continue north and east through a chain of alpine lakes including Susie Lake, Half Moon Lake, and Heather Lake.
This section delivers some of the classic scenery hikers associate with Desolation Wilderness—open granite benches, crystal-clear water, scattered pines, and constant mountain views.
Eventually the trail reaches Lake Aloha.
As the largest and most recognizable lake in the wilderness, Aloha is a destination worth exploring. Granite islands dot the lake while distant ridges frame the horizon. During summer weekends, however, it can also be one of the busiest places to camp.
Rather than stopping at Aloha, consider continuing beyond the lake toward quieter destinations such as Desolation Lake or American Lake.
Sierra Rec Recommendation
Spend the afternoon exploring Lake Aloha, but continue beyond the crowds for camp. The extra effort often rewards hikers with a quieter wilderness experience and a more memorable evening.
Day 4: Exit Through Echo Lakes
Distance: 5–7 Miles
The final day follows the Pacific Crest Trail corridor toward Echo Lakes.
The route gradually descends through granite basins and forested slopes before reaching the lakes and trailheads near Highway 50. Along the route stop at Tamarack Lake and explore Ralston Lake behind hidden in the granite wall. after a chilly swim the remaining three miles feels like a pleasant warm up instead a grueling heat wave to end the route. Some stop at the Upper echo for a water taxi ride, either way ice cream and refreshments await at the echo Lake Chalet.
Because this itinerary begins at Meeks Bay and finishes at Echo Lakes, transportation planning is important. Most hikers arrange a shuttle or leave a second vehicle at the Echo Lakes parking area before beginning the trip.
As the route descends toward the trailhead, hikers gain a final perspective on the scale of Desolation Wilderness and the country they have crossed over the previous four days.
Alternative Exit Routes
Backpackers looking for a different finish have several excellent options.
Horsetail Falls Exit
A steeper and more challenging route featuring granite slabs, dramatic waterfalls, and fewer hikers than the Echo Lakes corridor.
Rubicon Peak Exit
A quieter alternative with outstanding views of Lake Tahoe and a more remote feel than many of the area’s popular trailheads.
Both options create excellent variations on the classic Heart of Desolation itinerary and may appeal to experienced hikers looking to customize the route.
Planning Tips
Permits
Overnight permits are required for all overnight travel within Desolation Wilderness. Reservations are strongly recommended during the summer season. Make certain you plan your first night . the Meeks bay to Phipps pass region is a combination of two separate Zones and Desolation requires you stay with in yoru Permitted Zone night one of the trip.
Bear Storage
Bear-resistant food storage is required throughout Desolation Wilderness. This is non-negotiable in Desolation. Bears in Desolation are skilled food scavengers, we have personally met many a backpacker who did not listen to the rules and found themselves hiking out with out food, backpacks etc…
Campfires
Campfires have been illegal in Desolation Wilderness for over 30 years. Still today rangers spend most of the summer cleaning up illegal campfire sites. PLEASE STOP BURNIG RESOURCES IN DESOLTATION!
Water
Water is generally abundant along the route during summer, though all water should be filtered or treated before use.
Navigation
Trails are generally well-defined, but carrying a map, GPS device, or navigation app is recommended, especially during early season conditions.
Nearby Adventures
If you’re extending your trip around Lake Tahoe, consider exploring:
- Velma Lakes
- Dicks Pass
- Lake Aloha
- Mount Tallac
- Echo Lakes
- Meeks Bay
- Emerald Bay
- Desolation Wilderness Day Hikes
Final Thoughts
Desolation Wilderness is often described by its individual destinations, but its true character emerges when you connect them together.
Four days on the trail allows hikers to move beyond the crowds, linger beside alpine lakes, watch sunset from granite ridges, and experience one of California’s most celebrated wilderness areas at a slower pace.
From Phipps Lake and the Velmas to Dicks Pass, Lake Aloha, and Echo Lakes, this route showcases the landscapes that have inspired generations of Sierra backpackers—and remains one of the finest multi-day adventures in the Lake Tahoe Basin.
