A review of the Opening Weekend in Yosemite Wilderness off Tioga Pass 2023
Yosemite National Park – July 24, 2023 – Summer 2023 finally feels a bit normal. Tioga Pass, the Backdoor into Yosemite Wilderness and travel route over Hwy 120 to Yosemite Valley, Opened at 8 am on Saturday, July 22nd—the Latest Summer opening on record for the pass. We had to be there to see what the Winter of 2023 left behind and how it would shape the 2023 backcountry experience in Yosemite. a quick review of Tioga Pass and Lyell Canyon in Yosemite 2023.
From my home office in the Carson Valley in Nevada, I can be at the East gates of Yosemite and typically at a trailhead between the gates and Tenaya Lake within 2 hours. So for me, the high Country of Yosemite is home to so many summer adventures and, in my way, a place of serenity and peace that only comes from the mountains. With Saturday’s opening being announced Thursday, I changed my weekend plans and contacted a few friends for an impromptu trip to the Yosemite Wilderness.
Tioga Pass Opening Morning 2023
Leaving Carson Valley at 6:30 am, we pulled up to the gate in Yosemite at 8:36 am, after a short bathroom stop at a rest stop below at Tioga Lake. I was shocked that we only had about ten cars ahead of us at the gate at 8:30. I began to get excited that the trailhead parking area might be considerably easier than expected.
Showing my Seasonal American the Beautiful Pass, the Ranger said, “Have a great day exploring,” and we were on our way. The first glimpse of the park had far less snow than I expected from all the July reports of snowpack troubles. Mammoth Peak and Dana Peak had snow packs showing but also showed plenty of exposed surfaces, making me believe that exploring even above 10000 feet would be rational.
Lyell Canyon
For us today, the destination would be Lyell Canyon and exploring and enjoying the waters of the Dana Fork and Lyell Forks of the Tuolumne River. I did this exact trek back in 2019 after the heavy snows of the 2018-19 winter. Tioga Pass opened on July 1st of that year, and I visited on July 4th. That hike’s clarity and stunning scenery are so memorable that I needed to see it again at peak runoff season.
Arriving at the parking area just down the road from the Wilderness Permit offices off Tioga Pass (120) before Tuolumne meadows, I was happy to see only six cars in the parking area. Today would be a quiet and peaceful hike with a few hikers and possibly a couple of PCT or JMT through hikers on our way out.
Lyell Canyon Trail is an easy journey for most visitors. The first mile of the trail follows the Dana fork of the Tuolumne for approx .5 miles, then crosses over on a bridge that, after another .5 miles drops you into a place I call two bridges. A beautiful location that crosses the Lyell fork of the Tuolumne and gives visitors a great glimpse into the Lyell Canyo opening with Mammoth Peak in the backdrop. I have noted in past articles this is one of those places that, even if you are not a hiker, you should put this spot on your bucket list of places to see in Yosemite.
Trail Conditions of the Lyell Canyon Trail July 2023
After such a colossal winter, I expected the Lyell Canyon trail would be very wet and probably have hoards of mosquitos on this trip. However, we found today a trail on the verge of dry, with only a few sections where getting muddy and wet feet were in order, and a mosquito population was starting to get its vigor. Far better than any expectations I brought to today’s adventure.
After leaving Two Bridges, the Lyell trail leaves the river for a bit as it crosses over the forested section into the Rafferty Creek trail and creek crossing. Rafferty Creek, at this time, is running fast and has plenty of winter runoff, as we heard from one Ranger on the trail that the Vogelsang region still has plenty of snow.
As the trail comes back to the river, it is hard not to stop and take photos every 15 feet on the trail. The scenery improves almost every step on the Lyell Canyon trip.
Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne
The Lyell fork of the Tuolumne is a glacier and snowpack feed river that is so clear and pure in the early season. The river is swollen at its banks, and the life of the river goes from rapids and water slide plunges to calm, meandering, deep pools along the route.
I love the color palate the Tuolumne River presents in the Yosemite Wilderness. A shimmering green and crystal clear blue hue flow heavily over the river’s golden brown and silver granite floor. The forest’s shadows bring a dark blue strength to the river in sections and the grassy meadows of Lyell Canyon, buzzing with dragonflies, birds and deer, compliment the flowing river.
This water is headed down and across the park to Hetch Hetchy, where it becomes a critical part of the California Water system.
Crowdless Yosemite
From 9 am until 2 pm, our party of three along the river saw three people after leaving the Two Bridges section of the trail, 1 mile from the parking area. One lone backpacker headed out into the wilderness ahead of us, and two backpackers coming back into Tuolumne from the JMT headed down to the valley floor. This unexpected gift was perfect for our day’s adventure. Another extreme benefit of getting up early and into the park before the crowds. While returning to the parking area, we found that Two Bridges had a dozen people spread out along the shore and passed a dozen other hikers and backpackers headed up to Ireland Lake. I tried remembering a time in Yosemite when I saw so few people.
Swimming in the Tuolumne
Typically when I visit Yosemite high country, I drive further into the park for a dip into Tenaya Lake. Similar to Lake Tahoe, Tenaya Lake has healing powers on my soul. But today, we wanted to avoid any traffic delays that we might see in that area because of road work near Olmstead Point. So we instead choose a quick dip in the Dana fork of the Tuolumne. The river is running swift and cold, so this was a quick Polar plunge in the river before heading back up to the truck and exiting the park today.
Summer feels a bit more normal today because I can now take off and be in Yosemite on any day. I love where I live in the Carson Valley and how quickly I can get to the places I love, like Yosemite National Park.
