As a seasoned backpacker, I find myself drawn to the vast Wilderness of California’s Sierra Nevada each summer. This past June, I embarked on a five-day adventure through Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, a journey that left me awestruck by the sheer scale of nature’s beauty and the resilience of the human spirit. While the mosquitos were a persistent nuisance, the vibrant wildflower displays and cascading waterfalls with uninterrupted vistas into the backcountry made the trade-off worthwhile.
Day 1: Unveiling the Majesty of Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon National Park unfolded before me like a story waiting to be unraveled. Instead of rushing through a long list of stops, I savored a few essential experiences on our short first day in the park. The first stop at Grant Grove offered a glimpse into the ancient world of towering redwoods, their Cinnamon bark-like, weathered giants standing guard over the forest floor. The Michigan Tree adn a unique Large Granite rock located just above the Grant tree were our favorite parts as we walked along various trails, eventually ending at the Horse Corals.
A short drive further led me to Panoramic Point, where I was rewarded with a breathtaking vista of Kings Canyon, its sheer granite cliffs plunging dramatically into the valley below and the vast Wilderness beyond the canyon. The scene filled my thoughts with dream explorations, and I felt the power of nature palpable as I stood mesmerized by it.
I drove along the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway, a visual feast in itself. The sheer power of the Kings River carving its path through the granite cliffs left me speechless. I stopped at Grizzly Falls, a cascading beauty offering a cool respite from the afternoon heat. As I continued down the canyon, a pang of regret hit me for missing iconic spots like Cedar Grove and Roaring Falls due to our late arrival and limited time.
Reaching Roads End, the gateway to backcountry exploration, I couldn’t help but notice the resemblance to Yosemite Valley. The towering cliffs, the meandering river, and the lush meadows offered a glimpse into the park’s wilderness heart. A short hike on the Bubbs Creek Trail rewarded me with panoramic views of Muir Point and the surrounding meadows. Taking a moment to refresh by the Kings River, the setting sun cast a warm glow on the canyon walls, painting a picture of pure serenity.
The day wasn’t over yet. A quick detour to Zumwalt Meadow offered a glimpse into the vibrant wildflower displays and a taste of the backcountry experience. Though the loop trail remained closed for conservation purposes, I knew I’d be back another time for a multi-day exploration. As dusk settled, I drove back out, stopping at scenic overlooks like King’s Fold and Junction Point for one last look at the canyon’s grandeur. Junction Point is a location that was especially memorable, as the rugged carving of the canyon at tis location was spectacular to take in.
While just a taste of what Kings Canyon has to offer, this day trip left me with a profound respect for its rugged beauty and a yearning to delve deeper into its Wilderness on my next backpacking adventure.
Day 2: Transitioning to Sequoia’s Grandeur
Leaving Kings Canyon, the landscape began to transform subtly. The dramatic rock formations softened, giving way to rolling hills dotted with towering Sequoias. This shift in scenery mirrored the transition from the park’s wild personality to the serene grandeur of Sequoia. A few quick stops at Redwood Canyon Overlook and Kings Canyon Overlook remind me of quickly the impressive terrain inside these parks and the elevation difference from the valley floor. Soon, we were taking a ranger’s advice at Lodgepole Visitors Center to maximize our experience; we embarked on a self-guided exploration via the park shuttle. The first highlight stop was Moro Rock, where the panoramic view from the top allowed me to appreciate the vastness of the Sequoia backcountry and how rivers have helped carve the canyons that shape the Sierra. Today would mark my second visit to the 600-step journey up Moro Rock. However, the first one was inside a cloud, adn you could not see anything. I have to say the view is impressive.
The next memorable stop was Crescent Meadow, a stunning high alpine meadow adorned with wildflowers and surrounded by Sequoias. We embarked on an early afternoon hike on a great trail that led us to General Sherman & Circle Meadow, where we encountered a historic settler’s cabin and hundreds of others named Sequoias, a testament to the park’s rich human history.
Finally, after hours of exploring the Giant forest, we traveled back down to Lodgepole for an afternoon hike up the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River to Tokopah Falls. Another Gem that visitors should take in is its stunning cascade can be seen from half a mile back, but the final plunge is easily enjoyed at the trail end viewing area. On a Hot afternoon, the Marble Fork also provided us with a great swimming hole before returning to camp.
Days 3-4: Conquering Silliman Pass
Days 3 and 4 were dedicated to the challenging but rewarding backpacking adventure through Silliman Pass. The well-maintained trail led us through a diverse landscape, from thickly wooded sections to rocky outcrops. Each bend in the path revealed a new vista – a cascading waterfall, a meadow bursting with wildflowers, or a glimpse of the distant peaks. Reaching the top of Silliman Pass was a moment of pure exhilaration. The expansive view of the entire Southern Sierra stretched before us, a panorama that ignited the explorer’s spirit within. Our first night’s camp at Twin Lakes was a serene haven tucked up into the granite with twin peaks granite boulders towering just below the pass. The crystal-clear water provided a refreshing dip on the south east shoreline after the day’s hike and the quiet evening playing cards on the forest floor; the encroaching mosquitos were manageable but ever-present.
The following day, we continued our journey over Silliman Pass to Ranger Lake, a picture-perfect lake glimmering among towering pines. The stunning emerald-green water beckoned us for a swim, and the abundance of campsites surrounding the lake spoke volumes about its popularity. But even as I sat there enjoying the peaceful lake, I thought about the vista views we experienced at the top of Silliman Pass. I have never seen such a large expanse of the Sierra at one time. Filled with mystery and intrigue, I reflect on the conversation I had had only weeks prior regarding the Brewer survey crew and their exploits to cross this region. What a great adventure that must have been. We had spent a little downtime at the pass hiking north and south for better views. I loved the Northern Highpoint that gave us a peak at Lost Lake, Ball Dome, Sentinel Ridge and the Kings Canyon.
We briefly discussed whether we should make camp at Ranger Lake as one of our trail mates struggled a bit at the altitude. However, I intended to make it to Lost Lake for what I expected to be a great Sunrise Photo opportunity and a quieter evening in the Wilderness. So we packed up in the afternoon’s heat and continued back down the trail another 2 miles to Lost Lake. Reaching Lost Lake, our team was tired and ready for a quiet evening in the Wilderness. Each of us dispersed around the lake, taking opportunities to soak in the quiet Solitude, as we were the only visitors tonight. The wildflowers around the shoreline and the granite bowl above made this one of the prettiest camping destinations I have enjoyed yet in the Sierra. A nice cold swim did me well before dinner, but a noticeable increase in mosquitos quickly had me reaching for bug nets and Deet.
A fascinating tidbit on this hike is that no fires are allowed on the West side ( Twin Lakes) because the Forest lacks nutrients and simple burnable wood, making fire impact great. However, on the East side of the range, the forest changes to a Red Fir mixed forest, and the ground is littered with fuel, so even the ranger encouraged an evening fire to keep away the mosquitos. So, a Fire in the premade firepit was enjoyed on night two. It was not lost on me that this location is also where the Brewer Crew Stayed when surveying the Sierra over 100 years ago, and they accidentally started a Forest fire that had to be put out before continuing their expedition. It’s cool to know that we were the only visitors on that beautiful night, and yet we also were staying close to the exact location of the Sierra Original Survey crews.
The sunset was stunning, but it was the Sunrise here at Lost Lake that I was cherishing. I call it the reverse Alpine glow. The same Orange Hues that paint the Sierra Granite when the sun sets in the Sierra awaken the Easternly facing rocks at Sunrise. I have seen this many times, and it never gets old; the Sierra sunrise is a cherished summer tradition. You must be willing to arise early and wait for it to hit your mountain slope.
As with all trips, there comes a point where you are heading back closer to your car than your new destination in the Wilderness. And so we found one more pass over Silliman to Twin Lakes to be mentally challenging, but another quiet evening at Twin Lakes was delightful.
Day 5: The Sweet Satisfaction of Return
Our descent back down the trail on the fifth day was filled with a sense of accomplishment and camaraderie. We exchanged stories with fellow backpackers, sharing the joys and challenges of navigating the Wilderness. Looking back, I realized that June backpacking in the Sierra offers a unique experience – the trade-off for battling mosquitos is the abundance of blooming wildflowers and the cascading waterfalls at their peak flow.
As we finally reached the trailhead and piled into the truck, I knew this trip was more than just a hike. It was a journey of discovery – of the park’s diverse landscapes, my physical and mental resilience, and the deep sense of connection with nature. The towering Sequoias, the dramatic granite cliffs of Kings Canyon, and the peaceful Solitude of Lost Lake will forever be etched in my memory. If you’re seeking an adventure that challenges you physically and rewards you with breathtaking beauty, then a backpacking trip through Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks should be on your bucket list. But if you are just visiting for a few days, we hope this review helps you see the variety of locations that are breathtaking to enjoy. Safe Travels!
stunning images