A Backpacker’s Treasure Hunt in the Mokelumne
The golden light of late afternoon was painting the Carson Pass Summit in warm hues as I shouldered my pack and hit the trail. The backpack felt familiar, a comforting weight on my seasoned shoulders. Tonight, I would be following the usual well-trodden path of many past day hikes, but instead of returning a welcomed couple of days in the Mokelumne Wilderness. The scenic route on the PCT for a stretch, past the ever-charming Frog Lake, then on to Winnemucca Lake and its sapphire blue waters and past Round Top Lake to Fourth of July Lake.
The trail is a casual stroll compared to the steeper granite in Yosemite; I’ll be on later in the season, offering glimpses of the Lake sparkling Caples Lake below and an abundance of early summer wildflowers that are legendary to visitors and locals alike each summer. As I veered off the PCT, cutting across the ridge below Elephant Back Peak to Winnemucca Lake the evening walk picked up in both intensity and expectation. A race against the lowering sun versus the soul-stirring desire to stop and take in the lakes I was passing on my way to the final destination of the evening. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows, illuminating the vibrant tapestry of wildflowers blanketing the meadows. Each step was a brushstroke against the canvas of the high Sierra, the air thick with the sweet scent of lupine and paintbrush.
Finally, Winnemucca Lake came into view, a sapphire gem tucked under towering granite cliffs. This could have been my destination for the night, a tempting thought with its inviting shore and clear waters. But something deeper urged me onward. Round Top Lake, I knew, held a special kind of magic. As I crested the ridge to Round Top Lake, the sun, which had briefly left my view behind the peaks, burst back into sight, and the sparkling green hues of Round Top Lake e unfolded before me, a breathtaking location with Round Top Peak still dropped in Late season snowpack. It is one of the most spectacular lakes in the Central Sierras.
The setting sun casts a warm glow on the surrounding peaks, and the sparkling waters of Caples Lake are once again spotted on the horizon. A gentle breeze whispers through the trees lining the shore, carrying the promise of a cool night. Just a bit further and all downhill from here, Fourth of July Lake beacons me onward with the promise of a quiet evening among the stars.
Relief washed over me as I descended towards the Lake, my boots finding purchase on the well-worn path. Setting up camp was a familiar ritual, a comforting dance of unpacking, hanging the hammock, and preparing my simple camp dinner: a well-earned Charcuterie board of meats, cheeses and apples. I brave a quick evening dip in the Lake to rinse off the day’s sweating covering and, quickly change into my thermals and begin the warming process before calling it an evening. This is a process that I have become accustomed to that helps me sleep warmer in the cool Sierra evenings.
As I settled into my hammock, the first stars began to prick the darkening canvas of the night sky. The steep canyon walls of Round Top Peak blocked any potential city lights, leaving me with a breathtaking display of celestial brilliance.
The Mokelumne’s breezy silence is a remarkable lullaby for a peaceful sleep. Waking up in the Mokelumne Wilderness is a soul-stirring experience. A steaming cup of coffee and a plate of scrambled eggs, cooked on my trusty MSR stove, fueled my body and spirit. Fourth of July Lake has an almost emerald hue, and two ducks blaze across the water when I approach the lake shore. Soaking in the sun as it crests the bowl of granite and trees that linger in the canyon, my relaxed state quickly strays to an explorer’s mindset.
Today, the question lingered: a lazy day by the serene beauty of Fourth of July Lake or an off-trail adventure?
The allure of exploration won out. After packing up camp, I embarked on a journey across the canyon, following a faint trail rumored to lead to the Upper Blue Lakes. The path was overgrown in some spots, a testament to its less-traveled nature. Toward the bottom of the trail, I crossed a small creek and followed the easiest route in the direction of Upper Blue Lake I could find. A deep canyon with about 700-800 climbs out, walking south. The Western canyon walls stand large and rugged below Deadwood Peak. Google Maps has a name called Devils Corral, but I need to learn more about its origin.
Finally locating Lake off the ridge to the east, I enjoyed the short but rewarding climb back into the wilderness below, I emerged at Granite Lake an hour later. Another stunning blue gem, this one, buzzed with the activity of fellow backpackers.
A cool swim in the pristine water was a perfect reward, followed by a leisurely afternoon spent exploring the campsites and soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. As another spectacular sunset painted the sky, I set up camp for my second night, the familiar comfort of the wilderness enveloping me.
Tomorrow, I’d retrace my steps, connecting with the PCT above the Upper Blue Lakes and following it back to Frog Lake and the Carson Pass. But for now, I settled in, ready to savor another magical evening in the Mokelumne Wilderness, the sound of crackling fireflies a lullaby for a well-earned night’s sleep.
